Bigleaf hydrangea care guide: when & how to prune, fertilize and spray
Hydrangea macrophylla ยท USDA zones 5โ9
The classic blue or pink mophead and lacecap hydrangeas. Most bloom on old wood: the buds for next summer's flowers form the previous fall. Pruning at the wrong time is the #1 reason they don't bloom. Reblooming types such as Endless Summer also flower on new wood.
โ๏ธ Sun
Morning sun and afternoon shade. Full sun only in cool coastal climates.
๐ง Water
Thirsty. About 1 in (2.5 cm) a week; more in heat. Leaves wilting at noon is normal; wilting in the morning means water now.
๐ชฑ Soil
pH 5.0โ5.5 for blue flowers; 6.0โ6.5 for pink. Rich, moist but well-drained, high in organic matter. Flower color depends on soil pH and aluminum. Soil sulfur or aluminum sulfate makes flowers bluer; garden lime makes them pinker. Change color gradually over a season or two.
How and when to prune bigleaf hydrangea
Light spring prune (old flower heads and dead stems only)
When: from 2 weeks before to 2 weeks after the last spring frost.
- zones 3โ5: about Apr 26 โ May 24
- zones 6โ7: about Apr 1โ29
- zones 8โ10: about Feb 11 โ Mar 11
Next summer's flower buds sit at the tips of last year's stems. Wait until the buds swell so you can see exactly which wood is alive, and cut only above them.
- Wait until leaf buds are green and swelling. You'll be able to see which stems survived winter.
- Cut each old, dried flower head back to the first pair of fat, healthy buds below it. Those buds hold this year's flowers.
- Cut stems that are completely dead (no green buds, brittle and gray) back to the base.
- On mature plants, remove 1โ2 of the oldest, thickest stems at ground level every few years to renew the shrub.
- Don't shear or shorten healthy stems. You'll remove this year's flowers.
Tools: Bypass pruners, Small pruning saw
Caution: Never prune in fall or winter, and never cut all stems back. That removes the flower buds.
Fertilizing bigleaf hydrangea
Feed hydrangeas
When: 2โ5 weeks after the last spring frost, then every 8 weeks (2 times a season).
- zones 3โ5: about May 24 โ Jun 14
- zones 6โ7: about Apr 29 โ May 20
- zones 8โ10: about Mar 11 โ Apr 1
A light feeding in spring and early summer is plenty. Over-feeding gives lush leaves and fewer flowers.
- Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer at the label rate, spread around the drip line.
- For blue flowers, choose a low-phosphorus, acidifying feed. For pink, a higher-phosphorus feed.
- Water it in well.
What to use: ๐ฟ Organic acid-loving plant food (e.g. Espoma Holly-tone 4-3-4) ยท Slow-release balanced fertilizer (e.g. Osmocote Smart-Release 14-14-14)
Stop fertilizing for the season
When: 6โ8 weeks before the first fall frost.
- zones 3โ5: about Aug 6โ20
- zones 6โ7: about Aug 30 โ Sep 13
- zones 8โ10: about Oct 6โ20
Late feeding pushes soft new growth that won't harden off before frost and gets killed back.
- Don't apply any more fertilizer until spring. If you were planning one last feeding, do it now or skip it.
- Keep watering as normal. Well-watered plants handle winter better.
Soil, compost & mulch for bigleaf hydrangea
Test the soil (every 3 years)
When: 3โ8 weeks before the last spring frost.
- zones 3โ5: about Mar 15 โ Apr 19
- zones 6โ7: about Feb 18 โ Mar 25
- zones 8โ10: about Dec 31 โ Feb 4
This plant prefers a pH of 5.0โ5.5 for blue, 6.0โ6.5 for pink. A soil test tells you whether you need lime, sulfur or extra nutrients, so you aren't guessing.
- Take 6โ8 small samples from the root zone, 4โ6 in (10โ15 cm) deep, using a clean trowel.
- Mix them in a clean bucket, let the soil air-dry, and send about 2 cups to your local extension office or a soil lab. A home kit works but is less accurate.
- Follow the lime or sulfur amounts in the report. Change pH slowly: no more than 1 unit a year.
Tools: Clean trowel, Plastic bucket, Soil test kit or lab mailer
Adjust soil for flower color (optional)
When: from 2 weeks before to 3 weeks after the last spring frost.
- zones 3โ5: about Apr 26 โ May 31
- zones 6โ7: about Apr 1 โ May 6
- zones 8โ10: about Feb 11 โ Mar 18
Bigleaf hydrangea flowers turn blue in acidic soil where aluminum is available, and pink in neutral or alkaline soil.
- For blue: water in aluminum sulfate (1 Tbsp per gallon / 15 ml per 4 L) or scatter soil sulfur around the drip line. Repeat in fall.
- For pink: scatter garden lime at the label rate and use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus.
- Expect it to take a full season or more. White varieties won't change color.
What to use: ๐ฟ Elemental sulfur or aluminum-free soil acidifier, to lower pH ยท ๐ฟ Garden lime (dolomitic limestone), only if soil test says pH is low ยท Aluminum sulfate (for blue)
Refresh mulch
When: 2โ6 weeks after the last spring frost.
- zones 3โ5: about May 24 โ Jun 21
- zones 6โ7: about Apr 29 โ May 27
- zones 8โ10: about Mar 11 โ Apr 8
Mulch keeps roots cool and moist, suppresses weeds and slowly feeds the soil. Applying it after the soil warms lets roots wake up first.
- Spread 2โ3 in (5โ7 cm) of mulch over the root zone.
- Keep mulch 2โ3 in (5โ7 cm) away from stems and trunks. Mulch piled against bark invites rot and rodents.
- Don't go deeper than 3 in (7 cm) in total. Too much mulch suffocates roots.
What to use: ๐ฟ Shredded hardwood or pine bark mulch
Frost & winter protection for bigleaf hydrangea
Protect flower buds over winter
When: 3โ6 weeks after the first fall frost.
- zones 3โ5: about Oct 22 โ Nov 12
In cold winters, the flower buds at the stem tips get killed. That's the most common reason a healthy bigleaf hydrangea doesn't bloom.
- Leave the dried flower heads on. They give a little protection, and they're pretty in snow.
- After a few hard frosts, circle the shrub with chicken wire or burlap.
- Fill the cage loosely with dry shredded leaves or straw to cover the stems.
- Remove it gradually in spring once hard freezes are past.
Common bigleaf hydrangea problems and how to fix them
No flowers
Signs: Healthy leaves but no blooms.
What to do: Usually caused by pruning in fall or spring, or by a late freeze killing the flower buds. Only cut off old flower heads and dead stems, and protect the buds in cold winters.
Cercospora / leaf spot
Signs: Purple-brown spots on lower leaves in mid to late summer.
What to do: Mostly cosmetic. Water at the base, clean up leaves in fall, and use a copper or chlorothalonil spray in wet years.
Powdery mildew
Signs: White powder on leaves in humid, shaded spots.
What to do: Improve airflow. Use potassium bicarbonate, neem or sulfur.
Bigleaf hydrangea care FAQ
When should I prune bigleaf hydrangea?
Light spring prune (old flower heads and dead stems only): from 2 weeks before to 2 weeks after the last spring frost (around Apr 1โ29 in zones 6โ7). The classic blue or pink mophead and lacecap hydrangeas. Most bloom on old wood: the buds for next summer's flowers form the previous fall. Pruning at the wrong time is the #1 reason they don't bloom. Reblooming types such as Endless Summer also flower on new wood.
What is the best fertilizer for bigleaf hydrangea?
A light feeding in spring and early summer is plenty. Over-feeding gives lush leaves and fewer flowers. Good options: Organic acid-loving plant food (e.g. Espoma Holly-tone 4-3-4); Slow-release balanced fertilizer (e.g. Osmocote Smart-Release 14-14-14).
What soil does bigleaf hydrangea need?
Rich, moist but well-drained, high in organic matter. Preferred pH 5.0โ5.5 for blue flowers; 6.0โ6.5 for pink. Flower color depends on soil pH and aluminum. Soil sulfur or aluminum sulfate makes flowers bluer; garden lime makes them pinker. Change color gradually over a season or two.
How much sun and water does bigleaf hydrangea need?
Sun: Morning sun and afternoon shade. Full sun only in cool coastal climates. Water: Thirsty. About 1 in (2.5 cm) a week; more in heat. Leaves wilting at noon is normal; wilting in the morning means water now.
What are common bigleaf hydrangea problems?
No flowers: Healthy leaves but no blooms. Usually caused by pruning in fall or spring, or by a late freeze killing the flower buds. Only cut off old flower heads and dead stems, and protect the buds in cold winters. Cercospora / leaf spot: Purple-brown spots on lower leaves in mid to late summer. Mostly cosmetic. Water at the base, clean up leaves in fall, and use a copper or chlorothalonil spray in wet years. Powdery mildew: White powder on leaves in humid, shaded spots. Improve airflow. Use potassium bicarbonate, neem or sulfur.
More flowering shrubs care guides
Timings are given relative to your average frost dates, with examples for typical US climates. Always read and follow product labels.